Designer: Mary Stanley
Tools and Supplies Needed:
- OLFA RTY-2DX/MAG 45mm Ergonomic Rotary Cutter
- OLFA RM-MG; RM-MG-01 24" X 36" Green Double-Sided, Self-Healing Rotary Mat
- OLFA QR-6x24 6" X 24" Frosted Acrylic Ruler
- Fabric- You will need both a woven fabric and a tulle for your overlay. The amount will greatly depend on what size you are creating! To give an idea, I used approximately 2 yards of the woven (cream) fabric and 2 yards of the sparkle tulle.
NOTES Before Beginning:
-½” Seam allowance unless otherwise noted
No pattern is needed for this, as you will be working off of your personal measurements, but the fit will look different on different body types. I have 10” difference between my waist and my hips, which is what creates the separation in the front of the wrap and the appearance of “gathers” it the underskirt – if you have less of a difference for your measurements, then the split in the front of the skirt wouldn’t be as great. If you have a greater difference between your waist and hips then the split in the front would be even wider, so you may want to consider this when creating your skirt pieces and widen them some.
It's party season and I have been itching to use up these few yards of this glitter tulle I had left over from a project this year….when I decided I just needed a new skirt for New Years Eve celebrations we have planned! I looked at lots of skirt pattern options for women that had the tulle I was wanting to use, but they were all super full/poofy type tulle skirts…and that isn’t the look I was envisioning…I was wanting just a hint of tulle for the sparkle and fun, but not the volume of a normal tulle skirt. So that’s where this pattern idea came from and since there are no zippers or buttons needed, it is beginner friendly!
- So first off you are going to need to take your measurements as that is how you will determine the size you need for your skirt pieces. You will want to measure all the way around your waist at the spot you would like your skirt to sit. I like using my natural waist here – the smallest part of my waistline, to help give a more flattering look. For me, that is 37.5”. Now we will divide that number in ½”, which gives me 18.75”. We will then add 1” to this measurement (which is for our seam allowances) and now I have 19.75” which will be the main measurement I use for my waistband and skirt WIDTH measurements. Once you have this measurement figured out you will then cut out:
- (6) waistband pieces from your main fabric that are 3” tall by your WIDTH measurement we just calculated – so for me it was 6 pieces measuring 3”x 19.75”
- (3) waistband pieces from your tulle overlay at that same size as your previous waistband pieces (3”x19.75” for me)
Using your OLFA rotary cutter, mat AND acrylic ruler is SOOOO helpful in cutting out these pieces super quick! I also love that since the acrylic ruler is 6” tall it makes for quick measuring of the waistband pieces!
- Now we will be cutting out our skirt pieces and side ties. You will need to cut:
- (3) skirt pieces from your main fabric that are the WIDTH we already calculated by the length you want – I wanted a little above knee length (I’m almost 6 ft tall though so my measurements don’t work for everyone) So when I measured from my waist it was 23”. HOWEVER you want to be sure you are adding in 1.5” as we use that for the seam allowance and the hemming on bottom. So I cut out 3 panels at 24.5” length x 19.7 width.
- (3) skirt pieces from your tulle measuring the same length you just figured out by your FULL waist measurement we initially measured. So for me I cut out 3 tulle skirt pieces at 24.5” by 37.5”. Something to keep in mind, tulle does not need to be hemmed, so technically I could have only cut it at 23.5” for the length – however I left it as the 24.5” like the main skirts as I wanted the tulle to peep down further than the main skirt
- (2) side ties in the main fabric at 3”x 30”
- (2) side ties in the main fabric at 3”x50”
When you have everything cut out, you should have a pile similar to this:
- Now we will assemble our side ties. We will lay the two smaller ties on top of each other with the right sides touching and the two longer ties on top of each other with the right sides touching, and pin around 3 sides leaving one of the shorter edges open for turning. Sew them along those 3 sides with a ½” seam allowance.
- Once you have those 3 edges sewn, you will trim back your seam allowance in half. Once again, your clear ruler and rotary cutter make super quick work of this!
- Now you will turn your two ties right side out, iron them well and then Topstitch. Set aside.
- Now we will work on our waistband pieces! First, we will take 3 of our main fabric waistband pieces and the tulle waistband pieces to combine them. To do this, place the wrong side of tulle on top of right side of 3 waistband pieces and sew along both long edges- with ¼” seam allowance. The photos below show these steps in order. Top band shows laying the tulle on top of a band, middle band shows them clipped together and bottom band shows them sewn along the two long edges.
- Now we will attach 2 of the waist band pieces along the short edges by placing them right sides touching and sewing with ½” seam allowance. Open up seam allowance and topstitch with a scant 1/8” seam allowance on both sides of the seam you just created.
8. Now we will take the remaining waistband piece with the tulle overlay and lay on top of the left short side of the new main piece we just created. Here we are going to sew from the bottom up only 0.75” and from the top down only 0.75”. I marked my pattern pieces with a blue pen to show you the spots you would be sewing. Be sure you are backstitching to secure these seams.
- Then we will open that seam allowance back up and sew with the 1/8” seam allowance right along the folded edge here – securing the seam allowance to the back and creating our finished hole where the tie will pull through.
- Now repeat steps 7-9 with the 3 remaining waistband pieces we have that do not have the tulle overlay (this is our lining layer). Set aside both of these long waistband pieces we have now created.
- Now on to our skirts! Take 3 skirt main pieces and attach them (2 at a time) along the length sides until you have one long rectangle created. You can either sew these with a normal ½” seam allowance, and then serge/zig zag stitch that seam to close it or use French seams for these. If you are not sure how to use French Seams, you can see my detailed tutorial on this process here.
- Now we will enclose the 2 side edges by turning under ¼” and pressing and then turning it under once more by ¼” and pressing again. Topstitch along those two edges.
- Next we will hem the bottom of this long panel by turning under 1/2” and pressing and then turning it under once more by 1/2” and pressing again. Sew along this seam.
- Now we will take our waistband lining and lay it on top of this skirt piece with the right side of the waistband lining touching THE WRONG SIDE of the skirt pieces and the side with the created hole in the band to the right of the skirt. Your waistband piece will extend slightly past your skirt piece. Sew here with a ½” seam allowance.
- Now flip the waistband piece up, press the seam allowance up towards the band, and then topstitch 1/8” away from the seam on the waistband side.
- Repeat step 11 with our 3 tulle skirt pieces. Here I recommend using the French seam method for these edges to create a nice finish. We will not be enclosing the final 2 side edges or hemming this skirt piece as tulle does not fray – nice, right?
- Now we will sew 2 rows of gathering stitches to the top raw edge of this skirt.
- Now we will take our waistband main piece with the tulle overlay on it, and gather up this tulle skirt to be the same width as the waistband. It’s easiest to match up your two side seams with the side seams on the band and then gather from there to keep the gathering nice and even. Be sure to pin it with the right sides touching and the side with the created hole in the band to the LEFT of the skirt. Sew here with a ½” Seam allowance.
- Now fold your seam allowance up towards the waistband and topstitch 1/8” away from the seam on the waistband side.
- Next we will baste our ties in place on this skirt. The shorter tie needs to be basted on to the left side where the hole in the waistband piece is and the longer tie needs to be basted to the right side. Be sure to line your ties up with the BOTTOM edge of the waistband, the top will still be showing as that is the seam allowance for attaching our two skirt bands together.
- Now we will place our waistband skirt lining and the waistband tulle skirt layer together with the RIGHT sides of the waistbands touching. Pin around the top raw edge of the skirt and the two short waistband edges. Do not continue pinning the skirt layers together -we are only joining the two waistbands. You’ll want to make sure your ties are pulled down and away so they aren’t accidentally caught in the seam for the top of the skirt. Sew along pinned seams. Then trim back your seam allowance in half.
- Next, flip the skirt waistband right side out and press. Now sew around your hole you created in the waistband with a 1/8” seam allowance to join both the bands together there and create just the 1 hole.
- Finally, Top stitch around all 4 edges of waistband, which will join the two skirt layers together
And VOILA! You’ve got yourself a fancy skirt for Christmas parties or New Years Eve!