Sewalong to the Summer Playsuit by Peppermint Magazine
Designer: Catherine Holbrook
Youtube: @bringingsewingback
-----------------------------------------------
Size or Dimensions: Reference pattern for exact fabric requirements for your size
Skill Level: Advanced Beginner
Description: Summertime means taking it easy for the most of us. With school out and temperatures rising, there’s nothing better than throwing on a comfy outfit and heading outdoors to enjoy the sunshine. Insert the Summer Playsuit from Peppermint Magazine!
This easy to wear wardrobe staple is the perfect one and done outfit to sew up this summer! While more form fitting at the bust, the playsuit loosens down around the waist and hips, giving it a breezy fit for cooling down in the summer sun. It features patch pockets for easy phone storage, and the most adorable bow straps.
This tutorial will not only take you step-by-step through the process of sewing up the Summer Playsuit, but it will also teach you how to create a detachable waist sash for a cinching effect. All custom to your own measurements! Grab your Frosted Acrylic Ruler and let’s get into this tutorial!
Tool & Supplies needed:
2-3 yards of light to medium weight woven fabric such as: linen, linen blends, cotton, gauze, chambray.
RTY-2DX/MAG 45mm Ergonomic Rotary Cutter
45mm OLFA Endurance Rotary Blade
RM-CLIPS/3-01 35” x 70” Continuous Grid, Double-Sided, Self-Healing Rotary Mat Set
QR-6x12 6” x 12” Frosted Acrylic Ruler
QR-1x12 1" X 12" Frosted Acrylic Ruler
QR-6x24 6" X 24" Frosted Acrylic Ruler
5-Inch SCS-4 Precision Appliqué Scissors
1 16-inch invisible zipper
The FREE Summer Playsuit by Peppermint Magazine issue 40 will be used for this tutorial and can be downloaded at the link below. FREE DOWNLOAD
Prep:
We will begin by printing and assembling the Summer Playsuit pattern (or using a projector). With the the 45mm Ergonomic Rotary Cutter and the Continuous Grid Rotary Mat, cut out the pieces listed below. If you are finding your fabric is shifting on you while cutting, the Frosted Acrylic Rulers can help stabilize the fabric, giving you a precise cut!
For this project, you will cut the following pieces:
Front - cut 2 as a mirror image set
Back - cut 2 as a mirror image set
Front Facing - cut 1
Back Facing - cut 1
Patch Pocket - cut 2
Front Strap - cut 2
Back Strap - cut 2
Sewing Tutorial:
We will begin by staystitching the top edges of both of the Front and Back pieces. To Staystitch, reduce your straight stitch length to 1.5mm and sew a stitch 1/4” away from the raw edge. This will prevent the edges from stretching since they are cut on the bias.
Preparing the Pieces:
Mark all the pieces will their corresponding notches. Make sure to transfer the pocket placement marks on the right side of both front pieces.
Sewing the Pockets:
Locating the pocket pieces, finish the top edge with your preferred finishing method. The top edge is the edge with the notches 1” from the raw edge. This tutorial will finish all pieces using a serger.
With right sides facing up, flip the top edge of the pocket down 1” (at the notches), so that the flipped down portion is wrong sides facing up. Your 1" X 12" Frosted Acrylic Ruler is the perfect size for measuring this. Press.
Sew down each side of the flipped down portion 3/8” from the edge on both sides.
Clip the corners with your 5-inch Precision Appliqué Scissors, and finish around the remaining 3 raw edges of the pocket.
Turn the top edge right sides out, pressing the corners with a tool so they have a pointed edge. I prefer to use the point of my 5-inch Precision Appliqué Scissors for this step. Using your iron, press the three edges 3/8” to the back of the pocket. This will create seamless edges to the pocket. Give the pocket a full press.
From the wrong side of the fabric, topstitch the top folded down edge 1/8” away from the serged edge, to keep it in place and create a finished look to the pocket.
Repeat previous steps with the remaining pocket.
Using the notches as a guide, position each pocket on the right side of each front pieces, right sides facing up. Pin in place. Stitch the pockets to the front pieces around the side and bottom edges with a 1/4” seam allowance.
Installing the Invisible Zipper:
Locate front and back pieces. Finish the outer sides of all four pieces.
Locate the left hand side of the front and back pieces and set the other pair to the side. The left hand side is the side that we will be installing the zipper into. See photo below to locate the left hand side pieces.
Flip both pieces so that they have right sides facing down. To create a memory crease for easier zipper installation, press the 1/2” seam allowance to the wrong side. Unfold the seam allowance to reveal the memory crease.
Locate the 16” invisible zipper and unzip it to the end. On the front piece, place the zip face down on the side of the left front piece. The zipper stop should be placed 3/8” down from the top edge. Align the zipper teeth with the memory crease created previously.
Pin the zipper in place, and baste it to the front piece using a zipper foot (or by hand). To baste stitch, adjust your straight stitch length to 6mm (or as high as your machine will go).
Using an invisible zip foot (or a zipper foot with the left most needle placement), stitch the zipper in place with a regular straight stitch.
Locate the back piece. Repeat the above steps by positioning the zipper to the left side of the back in the same way. Ensure the zipper is not twisted before basting into place.
Do a quick check by zipping the zipper to the top. If zipper is not twisted and aligning correctly, use an invisible zipper to stitch into place.
Fold the front and back pieces right sides together, and pin the remainder of the side seam closed (below the end of the zipper). Stitch from the bottom of the zipper to the end of the seam with a 1/2” seam allowance. It is recommended to use a regular zipper foot so that you can get as close to the end of the zipper stitches as possible.
Press seam allowance open.
Finishing the Bodice:
Finish the center front and center back raw edges, continuing through each inner leg seam.
Place the front and back inner leg seams, right sides together. Sew a straight stitch at a 1/2” seam allowance. Press seam open.
Locate the two remaining front and back pieces. Finish the center front and center back raw edges, continuing through each inner leg seam.
Place the front and the back pieces right sides together and sew the sides seams and inner leg seams with a 1/2” seam allowance. Press seam open.
Now we will connect both pieces together along the crotch seam. Turn one front/back piece wrong sides out and keep the other right sides out. Insert the right sides out piece into the wrong sides out piece, aligning the tops, notches, and inner leg seam. Pin in place.
Sew together using a 1/2” seam allowance. Press open.
Sewing the Straps:
Locate one strap. Place strap wrong sides up and fold each long side back 3/8”. Press.
Fold one short end back 3/8” inch and press.
Fold the strap in half longways wrong sides together so that each side is now right sides facing out. Make sure that the short end fold is fully enclosed (trim if needed).
Stitch along the length of the strap 1/8” from the edge, pivoting and continuing down the short end.
Repeat previous steps for the remaining three straps.
Attaching the Straps:
Using a marking pen and your 1" X 12" Frosted Acrylic Ruler, mark two guidelines on each side of the front bib. The first guideline will be marked 3/8” down from the top edge. The second guideline will be marked 3/8” from the armscye. These marks account for the seam allowance that will need to be sewn when attaching the facing.
Locate one front strap and align it to the guideline, so that the stitches on the straps are facing towards the side seams. Extend the strap 1” beyond the top and stitch in place with a 1/4” seam allowance. Repeat with the remaining front strap.
Locate one back strap and place between the two back notches, extending it 1” beyond the top. Ensure the strap stitches are facing towards the side seam. Stitch in place with a 1/4” seam allowance. Repeat with remaining back strap.
Preparing and Attaching the Facing:
Locate the front and back facings. Staystitch 1/4” away from the top edge and finish each side seam.
Place the front facing and back facing right sides together. Stitch the left hand side seam with a 1/2” seam allowance. The right hand side will remain unsewn.
Press seam allowance open. Finish the side seam allowances and bottom edge of the facing with the seam allowance open.
Place the facing on top of the playsuit right sides together, aligning side seams, notches and guidelines. Flip the edges of the zipper out. Align the side seam of the facing with the edge of the installed zipper. Pin in place.
Sew around the entire top of the facing and down the zipper edge with a 3/8” seam allowance. Clip into corners and trim seam allowance. If desired, you can under stitch the seam allowance to the facing.
Flip the facing to the inside of the garment and press. If desired, the facing can be stitched in the ditch at the side seam and center back seaplane to keep the facing flipped to the inside. Try the playsuit on and tie the straps in a bow at the correct placement for your body.
Hemming the Playsuit:
Finish the bottom edge of each pant leg.
Turn the hem up 1 1/4” to the wrong side of each pant and press. Pin in place. Try the playsuit on to ensure that the length hemmed is desired. Adjust if needed. If wanting a shorter hem, it is recommended to fold up one additional time.
Once preferred length is pinned in place, stitch around each leg opening near the edge of the seam allowance.
Your Playsuit is ready to wear!
If desiring a cinching at the waist, below is a tutorial on how to create a custom sash to your exact measurements!
Creating a custom Waist Sash:
To begin, we will be using the following formula:
Length of Waist Sash = Waist Measurement + 30 inches
Width of Waist Sash= 2.5”
Once you take your own waist measurement, add 30 inches to that number and that becomes the length of the fabric piece you need to cut. Depending on the width of your fabric, you may need to divide that number in half and cut two pieces instead of one long piece.
Personal Example: My waist is 29 inches and my fabric is xx wide. I will be cutting one piece of fabric that is: 59 inches x 2.5”
Cut your waist sash. Fold right sides together and press.
At each short end, measure 1.5” from the raw edge side and make a mark. Using your 1" X 12" Frosted Acrylic Ruler and 45mm Ergonomic Rotary Cutter, align the mark with the folded edge and cut off the excess fabric.
Starting at one end of the sash, sew across the raw edge with a 1/4” seam allowance until you hit the center point. Backstitch and cut your threads. Begin again 2” away from your previous stopping point and continue sewing around the raw edge until you meet the other side. This will leave a 2” gap of stitches in the center of the sash.
Turn the sash right sides out between that 2” gap of stitches. Press.
Sew around the entirety of the sash with a 1/8” seam allowance, and you have a customized sash you can wear around your playsuit!
This summer playsuit will surely get lots of wear this summer. Let me know if you make it!
