Project: Crazy-Patch Quilted Tote | OLFA - CraftOLFA – Craft

Project: Crazy-Patch Quilted Tote

The Crazy-Patch Quilted Tote features instant “stack/slice/switch & stitch” crazy-patch blocks using pre-cut 10” squares. It’s the perfect bag for toting your latest quilting, sewing, or needlework project!



  • The finished bag measures 16″ x 21″
  • Quilt blocks measure approximately 9″ when finished in the tote
  • This bag uses a 1/4″ seam allowance, unless otherwise noted
  • The project takes 4 to 5 hours to complete (including quilting)



Confident Beginner



60mm Ergonomic Handle Rotary Cutter (RTY-3/DX)

12″ Rotating Self-Healing Rotary Mat (RM-125)

6″ x 12″ Frosted Acrylic Ruler (QR-6×12)

6″ x 24″ Frosted Acrylic Ruler (QR-6×24)




Sewing Machine



8 10″ squares of assorted prints

1/2 yard fabric for straps/end panels/pockets

2/3 yard fabric for lining

2/3 yard foam-like interfacing stabilizer

1/4 yard heavy fusible interfacing

5/8″ magnetic snap (optional)

Ribbon or other embellishment (optional)




Cutting Your Fabric

End Panels/Handles/Pocket(s)

  • 2 –  4-1/2″ x 18″ strips for end panels
  • 2 – 4″ x 24″ strips for handles
  • 1 or 2 – 8″ x 10″ rectangles for pockets


  •  21-1/2″ x 34-1/2″ rectangle for bag lining
  • 1 or 2 8″ x 10″ rectangles for pocket lining


  • 2 4″ x 24″ strips

Assembling Your Blocks

  1. Sort your 8 assorted squares into two sets of four prints each. Stack to arrange each set, alternating colors and/or prints
  2. Working with one pile, align the OLFA 6″ x 12″ ruler with the 15-degree marking along one side of your fabric stack to make the first cut using your rotary cutter.


  3. Rotate the  mat one quarter turn and repeat to make a second off-set cut. It will look like a wonky x.


  4. Next, rearrange sections so that no two fabrics will be in the same block.
  5. With right sides together, fold each section on the right over left, matching the center intersections. Pin each set in place before you move it to the machine to sew. Start with the bottom pair and make a pile for chain piecing (bottom set on bottom, top set on top)
  6. Use a 1/4″ seam allowance for construction. Don’t worry about the outer edges, they’ll be trimmed up later. Chain-piece by “air-sewing” for a couple of stitches, and then slip the next set under the presser foot.
  7. When the units are sewn, clip between blocks, keeping the chain piecing together for each block. Remember each block will have four prints. Press seams to one side or press open.
  8. Next, match each top half of the block with the bottom half. DO NOT match center seams. It will give a more “scrappy” look. Pin in place, and then chain piece blocks again.
  9. Press seams to one side or press open, if necessary, to reduce bulk.
  10. Repeat with the second stack of 4 squares, reversing the angles to make 4 more blocks.
  11. Once all blocks are made, trim each completed block into approximately 9″ squares. Trim each block the same size.


Bag Construction

  1. For each side panel of the bag, lay out four blocks, two from each stack. Rotate and arrange into a pleasing design. (NOTE: the lower 2″ will become the bottom of the bag)
  2. Stitch each side panel together in a 4-patch layout using a 1/4″ seam allowance.
  3. This time DO align the center seam. Press seams open.
  4. Stitch an end panel to the right side of each panel, aligning top edges.
  5. Trim to size and press seams open.


  6. To prepare for quilting, stitch the two completed panels right sides together along one edge. Press seams open.
  7. Layer your bag panels right side up over foam interfacing and machine-stitch to quilt the layers together.
  8. Quilt desired pattern onto your tote.


  9. Trim your edges.
  10. Fold bag in half, right sides together, and stitch to join the short edges, forming a tube. Press seam open. (You may need to use a press-cloth and steam to get that seam to set)
  11. With right sides still together, shift to center the side panels, making a lengthwise fold in the end panels.
  12. Match center and side strip seam allowances along bag bottom, pin well.
  13. Stitch the bottom seam, using a generous 1/4″ seam allowance.


  14. Create “box corners” in bag bottom. With wrong sides still out, fold bag to center the end panels, right sides together.
  15. Pin to secure temporarily. This should help to form triangle points at each end of the bottom seam.
  16. Align so the bottom seam is lined up with the center of the side panels. Pin in place.
  17. Draw a line 2-1/4″ to 2-1/2″ from the tip of the triangle.
  18. Use the 45-degree marking on the OLFA 6″ x 12″ ruler alongside the triangle point to check the right angle. Stitch on the line and repeat for the other side.


  19. You may leave the triangle corners untrimmed to add stability to the bottom of the bag. Set aside.


  1. Apply 4″ x 24″ fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the handle strips following manufacturer’s instructions.
  2. Fold handle pieces in half lengthwise and press.
  3. Fold both long edges to the center and press again.
  4. Fold in half again, enclosing the raw edges and pin in place. Then edge stitch.


  5. Measure out 4″ from center seams of the bag and pin handles to right sides of bag on each side.


  6. Baste into place and set aside.

Bag Lining/Pocket

  1. Measure the bag width-wise while pressed flat. It should measure 21″ from side to side. If so, the lining piece should be cut 21-1/2″ wide to allow for side seams.
  2. If the bag is smaller than 21″, adjust the width of the lining by that measurement.
  3. Measure the bag height, beginning from the bottom seam line to the top edge. It should be about 17-1/2″. The lining piece should be cut twice that measurement (35″) minus 1/2″.  This will keep the lining from being too baggy and showing above the top edge.
  4. If your bag is shorter, adjust the length of the lining by that measurement.
  5. Align pocket piece and pocket lining right sides together and stitch, leaving an opening for turning.
  6. Clip corners, turn right side out, and press well.
  7. Center the pocket on one side of the bag lining, measuring about 2″ from the top edge. Stitch pocket to bag lining around three sides, enclosing the opening.
  8. Backstitch at beginning and ending to secure. Repeat the process if adding a second pocket.
  9. Fold lining in half, right sides together, and stitch side seams, leaving a 5″ opening on one of the sides for turning.
  10. Create “box corners” on lining bottom using the same technique and measurement as before on the bag’s outer shell.


Put It Together

  1. Turn the bag inside out and insert the bag lining with right sides together.
  2. Center lining side seams at the center of the bag side panels and pin together around bag upper edge.
  3. Stitch around the entire bag opening, being careful to keep handles straight.
  4. Turn the bag right side out through the opening in the side of the lining. Push the lining back inside the bag.
  5. Roll the top edge of the lining slightly inside the bag edge and press or pin in place (I have better luck with pins).
  6. Topstitch about 1/4″ from upper edge, all the way around the bag.
  7. If you are installing a snap, follow manufacturer’s directions and apply magnetic snap to the lining, centering at the top edge.
  8. Using the snap as a guide, topstitch around the snap through all layers of fabric.


  9. Finally, edge-stitch or hand-stitch the opening in the lining closed.
  10. Give the bag a final press and tie an ribbon around one of the handles or embellish as desired.


This bag works well with other fabrics such as upholstery remnants. See photos HERE. Kits are available at Quiltscapes’ ETSY STORE as well.


Project design by Deonn Stott of Quiltscapes
March 2016
For personal, non-commercial use only.